I have been here for 1 week and 2 days, and came directly from Chang Mai. The ride up here was promising good things. I was ready to get away from the big city, pollution, and fast-paced life. The mountains were calling me again. I had planned 4 days in Chang Mai but after 3 I was ready to leave. The city itself is very laid back and chill compared to Phuket Town, but still you see foreigners tumbling out of bars drunk, and a really old white guy holding hands with a 15 or 16 year old Thai girl. I don't know if I have said before, but karaoke bars are really big here and are open until 2am in the morning. I was staying in the city, and didn't get much sleep from the typical loud Asian voice belting "I've got a feeling!" over the mic in a humorous tone. Then usually you will hear the loud construction sounds of people hammering on the semi-dilapidated structure next door, starting around 6am in the morning and the monastic hymns from the monks at 7am.
How people earn a living is completely different here than from Chang Mai. I appreciate the city and it's fun to party but not every night, and there are other things I could be doing for fun! With all of that said, I decided to come up to Pai.
So much has happened in the past two weeks I have to blog about the highlights.
The 2 nights before leaving Phuket were crazy! I was simply going out of my room for some milk, and ended up in my friends room with a bunch of people playing music and talking till 2am! So needless to say I woke up kind of late. This day I spent mostly packing, cleaning my clothes in the bathtub, and went to Tesco to check the prices of the tents, and sleeping bags. I also went around town and said bye to some people, visit my favorite coffee shop, and take some pictures.
I walked into town, had dinner at this crazy old British structure with green bushes on the outside, and music on the inside. There was also a sign that said "live music every night."All the tables were small so one eating at the restaurant would have to sit on the floor. There were candles lit on the table and the soundtrack of Greece the musical playing through the speakers! That was hilarious. I picked out a seat and had a bowl of edemane. There was this lady who invited me to sit with her, and have a drink. We started talking and she had some friends who joined us. One guy was from California, and the girl was from Paris, France. The girl from Paris was in her twenties, and in enjoyed talking with her. She also came for the live music later, and said she knew all the band members. I chatted with them for a little while, but then announced I had to leave because I had a Skype date with my family back home.
I left the restaurant and went over to my favorite coffee shop and took a picture with my friend Tom. We exchanged contact info, then I went to this this cute little Internet cafe, and got to see and talk with my parents and brother and sister which was so cool! I felt all warm and loved afterwards just to see their face, and for them to see mine for the 1st time in a month.
I then went back to the venue where a large crowd had gathered outside, and the music had started. The band was sooooo good. The set up was a woman vocalist, 2 guitar players, a clarinet player and a drummer. I enjoyed the music, conversation, and munched on dried squid and nuts. It was getting late, and I still needed to pack my backpack, so I said goodbye and walked back to the school. It didn't feel like I was leaving the next morning. I had been in Phuket for such a short time but it seemed like I knew about it like it was so familiar to me. I packed my bag, made a pile of stuff I didn't need, and walked down stairs to talk with Nicoli for a little bit. It was 1am already, and I went over to the hotel to return Cate's book she had lent me, but she wasn't there. I talked with Belle at the front desk for awhile and left the book with her. I then got some milk for I had drank coffee earlier and wasn't tired at all. I stuck the straw into the box and sipped quietly, walking down the familiar sidewalk back to the school. I ran into Erin as I was going up the stairs to my room, and said goodbye to her, then said goodbye to Nicoli and we exchanged some books. I went up stairs and set my alarm for 5am the next morning, and went to sleep.
The next day I woke up, showered, grabbed my backpack, checked the room for anything I left and walked to the bus station. It was dark when I left the school, and the sun was just coming up. I got to the bus station 10-minutes before the bus left, and drove to the airport near Nai Yang Beach (where I went camping earlier last month). The airport was busy and there were lines out the door to walk through security. I was there 1 hour before I flight left, and was glad I had time. I decided to check my backpack and just take my small bag as a carry on. I didn't know how small the plane was, and didn't want to be punching my huge Kelty in the overhead bin, or worse- have it fall out and hit someone. So I checked my bag, went to the gate, read at a nearby bookstore for awhile, then boarded the plane to Chang Mai!
I slept on the plane, and met this couple from Tuscany, Italy who where really nice. It was only a 2 hour flight to the city, and we landed around noon. It was already colder than Phuket from inside the plane when we landed. From my window, I could see large green mountains with vast amounts of vegetation and blue skies. I got off the plane and waited next to the baggage claim. While waiting I met a group who had just got finished volunteering at the Gibbion Rescue Project Center in Phuket. (helping monkeys) They were really nice, and gave me a map, pointing out where my guesthouse was (right next to theirs), and some good places to eat. One of the girls had stayed at the Little Bird Guesthouse before and said I would love it!
I took a little black 3 wheel motor taxi from the airport, into the main city. Chang Mai is surrounded by a moat of water, and inside the mote is the cities center. There is also a wall around the city which isn't completely standing today, but the remains of the wall are still standing. We went through the West gate, and he dropped me off at a market next to my guesthouse. It was past lunch time, and I hadn't had anything to eat except the soybeans for dinner the night before. I was so hungry and bought a small bag of cashews. I walked down the market which ended down this little street with older style houses surrounded by walls and little flowers. It was lovely, and peaceful. There was a little coffee shop that looked so rad. It was called the Somoan Shack. I never went but really wanted to! I passed by and turned the corner walking down another street to the Little Bird.
As soon as I walked through the gate, I saw many young backpackers lounging around reading books, someone was playing a ukulele, and everyone was supper friendly. I was shown to my dorm room with 6 beds, and I was on the bottom bunk. I put my backpack down, used the bathroom, grabbed my purse and left the guesthouse to explore Chang Mai! No time to waist. I started back where the market was and rounded the moat, walking around the moat to see art studios, many restaurants, hotels, bars, guesthouses, and green water in the moat. I had to walk and get out and be outside but still my body craved to be next to nature and be in the presence of just natural ambiance. I was on a mission to find the National Library which was half way around the square. I passed the Awesome Sandwich shop and saw they sold homemade yogurt, so I bought a small cup of yogurt and some water and continued walking. I stopped in a few places and was really close to a school. There were so many school children in skyblue uniforms walking around and laughing. There was also a lot of trees and I was very close to the library. There was this guy who had this huge block of ice and was shaving it on a blade and selling snow cones for 5 baht (almost a penny). I totally had one, and walked across this over head to a school and listened to the band play for half an hour. The school band was playing, but I didn't see any band leader. Regardless, the music was ahhhsommee!!
I THEN made my way to the library, so see it wasn't open on Mondays, so I just continued to walk around the square.
It was getting dark, and I needed a shower, and wanted to get back to the guesthouse to change into warm clothes. I cut across the square, visited 4 beautiful temples, which one of them met a Russian guy who said they had just started the Dharma reading. I took off my shoes and walked up the steps to this beautiful temple, and wow! The largest golden Buddha I had ever seen! It was a good time for me to deep breath, meditate, and just chill. I felt like I had been telling myself, "you have to always be doing something, or have something planned, or be going somewhere." But it is perfectly fine to not be doing anything in particular, and in those moments you are doing more than you could imagine or plan to do.
I got lost on the way back to the guesthouse, and in the process, met these 2 girls from Amsterdam, and a guy, Bruno, from Brazil. They were really nice, and directed me to the main road which was on the way to where they were going. We talked a little, and then I turned off to go to my guesthouse. I changed clothes, and met some of the guys sleeping in the bunk next to me, then headed out for dinner.
As I was walking out of my guesthouse, I spotted the group from Holland I had met earlier, and we went out for dinner at this Turkish place and had grilled pita with veggies. They were going to drink and dance and stay out late, but I felt like I was getting sick, and needed to get back to the guesthouse. I was still hungry though, and stopped at this place along the mote and got a burrito, met some people at the guest house, went out to this hang out place, jumped across a few walls, and then went back to the guesthouse to go to sleep. I didn't sleep very well, because I got extremely cold, and only had my towel to cover up with.
The next morning I woke at 3pm, and sick. I was coughing and had a runny nose. The dreaded cold! Since it was so late, I had to make good use of my time I had left, and laced up my shoes for a run around the moat. All in all it was 5 miles, and along the way it got dark. I stopped down the East side of the square for some hot soup, and in the process met this guy from Germany who had come to Chang Mai to climb. He was really friendly, and older man, and ended up inviting me to climb, and showing me this awesome vegetarian place, buying me a fruit smoothie, and also we met this guy from France who had just got back from Pai.
It was getting late, and I walked back to the guesthouse, only to walk into the lounge area and meet this other french guy, who had loves to go to Pai and told me some great places to stay. He was in Chang Mai learning Thai massage, and was very sweet to me. After talking I went out for some throat lounges, and some more soup then curled up in my bed with that horrible fan that kept me cold, and tried to sleep.
The next day I showered, and had to take care of my body. So I went to this nearby vegan place for ginger tofu, brown rice, and green tea. I went back to the guesthouse and grabbed my camera and took a taxi to the Doi Suthep National park. Ahhh!! I could be one of those people who leave the face of the planet, and live in the national park illegally. Or a homeless person who lives next to a stream, or a hermit on-top of the mountain. The ride up I was enjoying the mental, and the lush green trees. Nothing but green leaves, vines, birds, and sunshine. It was heavenly. I was dropped off at the top, near the Doi Suthep temple, and climbed this freaky long staircase to the top. I felt like my brain had turned into a bowling ball, and was throbbing inside my head. Geze. I was one sick puppy. I walked through the entrance, and was overcome with the serenity and peacefulness of the courtyard before the initial temple. It was definitely squirming with tourist and people who were photographing the sacred Buddha, but I walked into the temple, and just tried to feel the spirit of what was really happening here where the doors were closed for observational purposes. There was a tree at least 15 feet made of gold, and little silver leaves hanging from each branch. The Buddhist who came to pray were lighting incense near by and bowing towards little Buddha statues, and also had carnations in their hands and would take a couple laps around the temple. In one of the rooms a monk would chant over visitors and sprinkle them with clean water, and tie white bands around their wrist, to keep away bad luck. It was very interesting.
I didn't want to pay for the taxi fare down, and needed the fresh air, so I started to walk the 30k, back to Chang Mai. Not far along the way was this young couple who rolled down the car window and asked if I wanted a ride. They were so nice! They were both nineteen and spoke English. They even stopped along the way and asked for a picture with me. They were trying to set me up with their friend, but I just laughed. They took me back super close to my guesthouse! I thanked them, and we exchanged contact info.
I showered then headed out for some water and limes. I was going to get dinner, but just needed to drink water and flush all the toxins out of my body. I got two huge bottles at the store then walked over to this awesome square on the edge of the mote used for artist, lovers, and kids doing bike tricks in the square. It was really relaxing, and I just sat there, doing good to drink water. I journaled a little, and just let my body rest.
There was this young Asian guy walking behind the main square and had a notepad. It wasn't too long before he came over and walked up asking me, "where are you from?" I was skeptical and alone in the dark park and responded with, "why do you want to know?" He had a kind face, and I found him extremely attractive which was weird considering I have NO attraction to Asian men! Haha.
His name was Jack. He was conducting a survey on people around the world for a speech on global pollution. He wanted to ask me questions and record my answer. I agreed. After interviewing me, we talked awhile, and I somehow started explaining the difference between global pollution and global warming, and giving him a mini science lesson in English. He spoke English, but only a little. It was fun talking to him, and he asked if I had been to the night bazaar. I said I wanted to go, and so he took me on the back of his motorbike!
We parked and walked through the very well organized paradise for the tourist shopper. I don't really like to go shopping, but needed some sunglasses, and picked some pink ones out. Jack actually had matching black glasses, and we put our shades down, feeling very cool striding in our skinny jeans. Haha. We walked a little ways and were enjoying our conversation when I heard this scream and a huge crash nearby. I spun around to see a bunch of Thai's looking toward the ground behind this table, and rushing forward. Someone was hurt. I cautiously made my way around the table and saw this old Thai guy on the pavement, eyes rolling back and fluttering, and didn't appear to be breathing. This lady (who was his wife) was pulling on his arm, trying to make him stand up, but clearly he was passed out and it was making his head hit the back to the pavement. I took a nearby blanket and supported his head with it and my hands. I said "it's okay, he needs to lay down," but she didn't understand, and instead panicked even more and started beating the heck out of his chest. I looked her in the eyes, and said again using hand motions, and this time Jack knelt down and started translating.
I think the guy was having a seizure, but one one knew this.(they believe in evil spirits, so that's all they knew to think) The man's head was laying in my lap. He was clearly breathing, and I took his pulse which was really low. I started rubbing his arm and shoulders trying to stimulate him, and make his relax to wake up. Some people around were putting this yellow brownish powder in his mouth which colored the foam coming from his mouth. He started to cough a little, and gag. I motioned the yellow powder away. After awhile he started to breath heavier and his eyes opened and he rambled off a bunch of things that didn't make sense. It took about 10 minutes for him to wake up enough to sit up against the back of this container, and someone had already called the hospital. He wanted to stand up, but as soon as he did, his legs wouldn't work enough to stand up. I had ahold under his elbow so thankfully he didn't fall, and I helped him back down. The ambulance showed up a few minutes later, and the paramedics took care of him. The security officer was asking his wife for the hospital card, otherwise it would be super expensive. The excitement had settled down, and the men around me had given me all wei's and bowed saying thank you (kapkunka). I just weied back and said (kapkunka) too, cuz I didn't know what else to say in Thai. Lol. It was either "hi" or "thank you," the two closest Thai words I know that would be appropriate. Afterwards I felt extremely close to Jack. He had been there the whole time translating and helping out. One Thai man said something to him to tell me. "He says thank you so very much, and it is good to see you care about the man." Jack translated to me. Ah! That was so cool! Yes! I do care about the man, about the Thai people in general. I want them to know that, but it was cool to see that actions speak louder than words in every language.
That was so exciting! The adrenaline of the moment left me feeling super free and powerful. At that time, my best friend was Jack. At least he felt like my best friend. He has a good heart. He drove me back to my guest house, and since I don't have a Thai phone, I wrote my email on his arm. I promised to call him if I wasn't going to Pai, but the next day....
I got up, had Papaya Salad at this Vegan place, met a midwife from Houston/spiritual genie/teacher/very attractive man, and talked with him for 2 hours. Then took the last bus to Pai.I feel like I'm giving a lot of detail for the highlights, so I'm going to try to quickly sum up the past week. Ughh.. but it's impossible! :) There are so many cool stories.
The bus ride up to Pai took 2 hours, and it got dark. For the first time in a month I could see the stars! The road going up to Pai is the Road to Hilo (sharp switchbacks, and turns). Quite a few of my close neighbors threw up along the way, but I was perfectly happy. I got to my accommodation and picked out a little blue tent. There was a local festival going on, and I decided to check it out. It was around 9pm, and I headed down the hill to take advantage of the super cheep Thai food, delicious! And also live music! There was an impressive stage with a popular Thai band playing. The area was packed with families, and appealed to the younger crowed, hanging out. I was enjoying the music, and this Thai couple in front of me invited me to a table and bought me a beer. I thought they didn't speak English, and just used hand motions to communicate and the woman and I danced to the music. Thai-Reggae and it was bombing! I danced my butt off. There was a huge dirt area in front of the stage and me and a bunch of people my age were dancing and kicking up the dirt so it looked like a huge smoke screen with the stage lights. It was so cool! I was covered in dirt by the time I returned to my camp. I thanked the people who had bought my beer, and walked back.
The next day I woke up around noon and ran around the entire city of Pai, through the villages in the hills, and on my way to this waterfall. I kept asking "how long to the waterfall?" and people would say 2km. But after 4 hours, I was exhausted from running and on top of a mountain and still hadn't found this waterfall. I went up to this view point and asked this young kid the same question and he said... 2kilometers. But I didn't want to go anymore. I asked how to get back to Pai? And this guy came up and suggested the boy take me back! The boy was more than happy, and also took me to the top of the water fall where we walked around together, and talked. He was actually just a month older than me, and on the way back down to Pai we got acquainted. His name was Wind, and he invited me to the Lisu New Year, a 3 day celebration later on that night, and I told him I would love to come! He dropped me off to shower, and picked me up at 7pm sharp.
The Lisu are a Chinese hillside tribe that speak their own language, and have their separate new year. He drove me back up to the village to his Aunt's house and gave me a velvet gown to wear. It was royal purple with a yellow neck line and little bells attached at the neck and wrists. His Aunt dressed me and then stepped back and said "beautiful..." :) I was feeling very special! I went out, and Wind too had changed into lime green velvet pants. He took me down to the celebration which was held in the city arena of dirt, and covered with a roof of wood. There were fireworks going off everywhere and a bunch of women and men holding hands and dancing in a ring around this totem pole to this guy playing a sitar. (2 stringed instrument similar to a fiddle- thank-you Music Appreciation, I actually know what that thing is...) The next 3 hours I danced with particular steps to take to the music. It was fun trying to memorize the steps to each tune. Wind danced with me a little, but he was very shy of girls. Haha. He bought me noodle soup, and a glass of orange juice, which was huge considering he probably makes that amount in a month! He is going to the military in 1 month, and doesn't have very long in Pai.We headed back to my campsite around 11pm and I went to bed. It was so cold in my tent! I was freezing!
The next couple of days included climbing up to 2 waterfalls, learning how to ride a motorbike, going to a party with a guy who has dreads past his butt, and figuring out the couple who had invited me to dance and bought me a beer my first night in Pai are actually deaf, but still enjoy dancing although they can't hear. And they didn't understand me, but still showed kindness! Ah! I was elated when I found that out. Reggae bar, party on top of the mountain with a bunch of hippies, and long amazing runs in the morning.
I just got back to Pai from Sapong, Tom Lod (the largest cave in Thailand with crazy stalagmites and a good amount of guano, soooo beautiful). I road my motorbike from Pai to May Hong Song over 200 kilometers of mountains, and nature. The Trail Ridge Road of Thailand for sure. Met a lot of cool people staying at Cave Lodge, sleeping on a cot for $1 a night, and having the best curry of my life! I got to meet the Mayor of May Hong Song who offered me a job to teach for 1 year, but I know nothing about the city, hadn't planned to teach there, heard that's the #1 place for human trafficking, and it's 5 miles from the border of Burma where all the fighting is happening, so I didn't commit to that. BUT! I did find a place 30K from Pai in a Karen village (the ladies with rings around their neck) to volunteer teaching English. They pay for my food, and housing! I really want to do that! And am leaving Pai either Sunday or Monday to go into the village to teach.
I am staying closer to town, and am in a private bungaloo next to the river with a hot shower! So nice! I actually slept last night and stayed somewhat warm, compared to the last nights in a tent. Although it was very cheep, I felt like staying in a tent has been delaying my sickness.
I woke up today, went for a run, showered, washed my clothes, clipped my toenails, went to the market, got a sandwich, some veggies to cook dinner, and some tofu. There's supposedly a crazy half moon party tonight in the jungle, and I had planned to go but it is just starting and I actually feel like taking a nap! Haha. I have been sick for a week now and just want to be better. Especially if I'm going to be in the jungle without hot water, or other luxuries.
I am so excited to start teaching again! I can't wait! The person who owns the guesthouse I'm staying at is actually Karen, so he was telling me about his culture last night. Just the fact he wants to tell me about his culture is cool!!! Everything is so beautiful here, and I truly feel blessed.
After volunteering I plan to make my way to India by bus. First through Laos, China, (Tibet), Nepal, then New Delhi, and the Himalayas. I have to get at least 2 visas before leaving here, and so that means I need a place to stay and address. Which is a plus that comes with staying in the village. So far I know I'm the only white girl going to be there, and it's the poorest people in the Golden Triangle, but also the most caring. The guy last night was telling me when first arriving I have to eat something at everyones house in the village. So just eat a little at each house so you can eat at everyones house. It's a way of welcoming me into the tribe, and also if they don't show kindness, they fear bad spirits, or bad luck. Needless to say I'm stoked all the more!! :D
I will not have Internet access as of Monday for sure, and will try to travel to the main town at least once a week to check the mail. So the last time I can Skype will be Sunday night. Other than that, I will have some sort of address and would love to receive letters! I'll try to blog up to when I leave, but hope you all know I love you and am thinking about everyone of you!
Shout outs to:
Acacia for committing to Colorado State! You go girl!
David, get better, I've heard you have the flu! I love you!
Sara, I appreciate your comments, and hope you are taking care of yourself! Email is good!
Everyone reading, I love you and miss you!
Pictures of where I am!
Cave Lodge near where I'll be teaching English.
Tom Lod: the freaking awesome cave near the place i'll be teaching. 
1 comment:
I got a shout out!!!! Yay!!! :)
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